The Cliffs of Moher and the Aran Islands sit on almost every first-time visitor's list, and for good reason. They're also a long way from Dublin. Try to fit both into one day and you spend most of it on the road. Spread them over two days and the west coast has time to work its magic.
Here's how we'd plan it for a private group.
Day 1: Dublin to the Cliffs of Moher
The drive from Dublin to the Cliffs takes roughly three and a half hours, so we leave after breakfast and break the journey for a coffee on the way. In a private vehicle you can stop wherever the view or the café looks good, without waiting on a coach full of strangers.
The Cliffs run for about 14 km along the Clare coast and rise to more than 200 metres at their highest point. Some tips:
- Walk away from the crowds. Most people stay near the visitor centre and O'Brien's Tower. Walk ten minutes along the path in either direction and it gets a lot quieter.
- Come late in the day if you can. The cliffs face west, so late afternoon and evening light is the best, and the tour buses have usually gone.
- Bring a proper jacket. Even on a bright day the wind at the top can be strong.
On the way in or out, it's worth driving through the Burren, a huge limestone landscape that looks almost lunar. Poulnabrone dolmen, a portal tomb thousands of years old, is a short detour.
Where to stay
For an early ferry the next morning, Doolin is the obvious base. It's small, close to the cliffs and known for traditional music in the pubs at night. Lahinch (beach, surf and a famous golf links) and Ennistymon are good alternatives nearby. If your group prefers a city, Galway is about an hour and a half north, with far more choice of hotels and restaurants.
Day 2: the Aran Islands
There are three islands: Inis Mór (the largest), Inis Meáin and Inis Oírr (the smallest and closest to Clare). Ferries leave from two places:
- Doolin, Co. Clare: a short crossing, but the service is seasonal (roughly spring to autumn). Some sailings also run under the Cliffs of Moher, so you see them from the sea as well.
- Rossaveal, Co. Galway: runs all year and is the usual route to Inis Mór. It's west of Galway city, so it suits groups staying in Galway.
Sailings depend on the season and the weather, so check the ferry company's timetable before you go. We plan the drop-off and pick-up around whichever sailing you book.
On Inis Mór, the highlight is Dún Aonghasa, a prehistoric stone fort right on the edge of a sheer Atlantic cliff. Hire bikes or take a local minibus from the pier. On Inis Oírr you can walk most of the island in a few hours, past stone walls, a ruined castle and the rusting wreck of the Plassey on the shore.
After the return ferry, we drive you back to Dublin in the evening, or on to your next stop if you're continuing around the country.
Why go private?
Group coach tours do this route in one very long day, on a fixed timetable. With your own driver you pick the pace, stay where you like, take the later ferry if the sun comes out, and don't spend half the trip in a car park waiting for other people. For families, golf groups and small corporate groups, it's a far more relaxed way to see the west.